23km Sarria to Portomarin. A few up and down bits but relatively easy…..even the first hour in pitch black on woodland tracks. My 5 euro headtorch is proving valuable. An early start and two hours of walking before breakfast broke the back of the day and we arrived in portomarin by 12.30. Along the way we passed the 100km to Santiago marker. This is the minimum distance you have to walk to get the compostela. We had been warned that the way gets very busy from this point with lots of people just doing the last few stages. However it is not too bad so far. There were a couple of coach parties that were dropped off a couple of kms outside of the town so that they could walk in , get their stamp and then book into a hotel. After covering over 400km over the past two weeks it is difficult to not feel smug and a bit annoyed at this way of doing pilgrimage……..we did encounter some very funny graffiti on a marker post today…..’Jesus knows if you take a taxi’. Each to their own I suppose. Portomarin is very pretty but accessed over an impossibly high concrete bridge over the wide river. I crossed it very quickly and prayed very hard. Still alive and still scared of heights! Tomorrow is portomarin to Palas de rei. Only 25km but mostly hills. Hard to believe we are only 95km (59 miles) from Santiago.